Fihalhohi
Facts & Highlights
- Traveled in 2009
- Fihalhohi Island Resort (3,5 stars)
- South-Male Atoll
- Transfer by speedboat, approx. 50 minutes duration
- Island size: 450 x 240 meters
- 150 rooms (including water villas)
- Buffet-style dining
- Website: https://www.fihalhohi.com.mv/
- House reef available
- Barefoot island
- Highly popular among divers and snorkelers
- Maintains its original character with beautiful palm groves
- Accommodation in quad, double, or single bungalows
- Simple rooms with sufficient amenities
- Buffet offering straightforward meals
The first time in the Maldives
We were quite young and still in the midst of our training. As one can imagine, being an apprentice in 2009 didn’t leave us with much money per month, but that certainly didn’t deter us. We didn’t yet have a shared apartment and were still living with our parents, so at least enough of our monthly salary remained to save up for it accordingly. However, bigger expenses and Friday nights out at the club were put on hold for the time being.
We first sought advice at our trusted travel agency about which island would be good and how much everything would cost us. The “Fihalhohi” hotel was recommended to us for the Christmas and New Year period. It was considered a very good time to travel, the hotel had many regular guests, and it was highly popular among divers. Since we didn’t want to risk bad weather and had already planned time off for Christmas and New Year’s, we decided to book during the high season, which also meant the most expensive travel period (special menus or events for guests are planned during Christmas and New Year’s and included in the price).
The preparations
Before the trip, we wanted to prepare ourselves thoroughly and thus gathered information on the internet about the laws and behavioral norms, which might also be familiar from other Muslim countries, as well as about the dangers in the ocean that could await us there. What we came across were many horror stories about dangerous underwater creatures, such as the triggerfish: a huge fish with really nasty teeth that warns you when it feels threatened. It then swims diagonally towards you and veers off just before reaching you. By then, you should swim away quickly! The lionfish: highly venomous! Absolutely do not touch or step on it! In general, the rule is to not touch anything underwater or step on it. However, we didn’t let ourselves get too worked up either. As you know, the internet always presents the worst-case scenarios 😉 .
What do we need to pack?
Do we need a beach towel? Do we need sturdy shoes? Could it get chilly in the evening or at night? What vaccinations should we get beforehand? Is our passport even still valid? And so on and so forth…
We were true overpackers! Of course, we had taken way too much with us, and the high-heeled shoes or the jacket for the non-existent cool evenings were left in the suitcase. You’re provided with a new beach towel for each day of your stay by Fihalhohi, free of charge, and besides summer clothing for the restaurant, you practically spend the whole day in swimwear, going barefoot or in flip-flops.
To find out what we pack today, click here: packlist
Informed, packed, ready!
A long-haul flight is really exhausting, and we were completely wiped out when, after about 9 hours in economy class, we finally looked out the window and spotted the first islands in the turquoise water. From above, it seemed as if they had all been simply placed in the ocean. At this sight, the stress automatically melts away, you feel the excitement on the airplane, and you immediately start looking forward to what awaits you.
The landing on the airport island at that moment seemed as if we were about to land in the water! Yes, the airport is its own small elongated island! It was a strange feeling and very exciting! But don’t worry, the runway is long enough, and the pilot can easily brake here. As always, there’s the waiting time until the stairs are attached to the airplane and everyone is let out. So, which type are you? Comfortably stay seated and eventually stand up once the plane is half empty? Or are you the type who stands up immediately once the plane has been in the parking position for just a second? Honestly, we’re a bit of both. Of course, we’re just as nervous, but standing up right away doesn’t really bring an advantage since you still can’t get out anyway. Unfortunately, it’s kind of like peer pressure, if everyone stands up, then you have to do it too 😀 .
The doors open, you exit the plane, and “bam,” it feels like you’re running into a wall of heat. After the air-conditioned air, we had to get used to the hot tropical air. We were allowed to go down the stairs and just walk across the tarmac to the terminal building on our own. Nowadays, it’s not like that anymore, you’re driven by bus, and everything is bigger and more modern, and the airport processes have become very professional.
In the arrival terminal, it’s a large hall where you’ll find the first restrooms to your left, immigration straight ahead, from where you can already see the baggage claim behind it. Things move a bit slower in the Maldives, so you might have to wait longer at the baggage carousel. You’re on vacation now and should take your time, but waiting for the luggage… always a test of patience for us 😉 .
Once outside, a hotel staff member was already there to receive us. Usually, a hotel representative or the tour guide holds up a sign or approaches you directly to check you off on a printed list. In 2009, the airport was much smaller, with only one restaurant outside and a few shops, while today you find many small hotel stations where the onward journey with the guests is discussed.
With the speedboat to the island
With our suitcases and other guests, we were transported across the ocean by speedboat. I found it exciting and hoped to see dolphins along the way, but unfortunately, we weren’t lucky. Nonetheless, it’s thrilling to pass by the other islands and breathe in the sea air. By the time you arrive at the island with the speedboat, you won’t feel tired from the long journey anymore. You disembark and from the jetty, you can already see the incredibly white sandy beach and the turquoise lagoon. An island as you’ve seen in movies, with lots of palm trees and green bushes.
We instantly fell in love with the colors. Walking along the jetty, you can see the first fish in the clear water to your left and right. The breeze tickles your nose, the sun illuminates everything, making the green of the palm trees and plants radiate in a vibrant hue. This view of the island makes you beam with happiness. The anticipation of being able to call this island home for two weeks, on a small island somewhere in the world, surrounded by fish and the depths of the ocean.
Arrival
As a welcome to Fihalhohi, each of us received a fresh coconut with a straw for drinking. For coconut enthusiasts like Michael, this was already a small highlight at the beginning, and he eagerly drank it all. After filling out the hotel forms, there was an orientation for all first-time Maldives visitors about what to be mindful of in the water, which fish are dangerous, and how to avoid stepping on the corals. We found this very helpful at the time and wished that other islands would do the same today.
After the briefing, Michael unfortunately started feeling a bit unwell. We assume that the boat ride and then consuming the whole coconut (and a bit of mine 😉 ) might have upset his stomach. So, we decided to take it easy on the first day, with plenty of rest and a leisurely stroll around the island.
The rooms
We were in a bungalow complex with four units in one of the lower rooms. That means there were also rooms beside and above us. The ones above us had a balcony, and the lower rooms had a small terrace. Inside, the bungalows were simple but clean and tidy. The bathroom wasn’t a semi-open bathroom like you find in many other beach bungalows in resorts. Here, it was a small enclosed tiled space with a sink and a wide mirror, a toilet, and next to it, a shower-bathtub combo, as well as a small louvered window. Additionally, fortunately, this room had an air conditioner because the double bungalows on this island were equipped only with a fan. Given the tropical temperatures, a fan alone definitely wouldn’t have been sufficient to cool down the bungalow or allow us to sleep comfortably.
But you know what we didn’t have? We didn’t have Wi-Fi! Yes, in 2009, there was no free Wi-Fi on the entire island. We had a telephone in the room, and with that, we could call the reception and have them connect us internationally. Since back then the prices for such calls were incredibly expensive, we only informed our parents once, briefly, that we had arrived safely and everything was okay.
Also worth mentioning: There was a flashlight in each room. Why? Because once the sun set, the interior of the island was pitch dark. There were only a few dim lights along the paths, and not everywhere. Therefore, every evening, you had to take your flashlight with you since iPhones with flashlight functions didn’t exist back then 😉 .
The island
The island itself is very beautiful, densely covered with plants and palm trees. Once you step out of the island’s interior, you’ll find a wide white sandy beach that can be quite blinding, especially in good weather – so don’t forget to bring sunglasses. You’ll also come across typical creatures like fruit bats or hermit crabs. Don’t be surprised if a hermit crab has a number on its shell; it might have even been the winner of the last “crab race.” In addition to the garden and beach rooms, Fihalhohi also has water villas that stand on stilts in the water. We often took walks there and once during the daytime from the jetty, we saw a huge triggerfish swimming by. That was truly impressive for us back then! The water is so clear that you don’t necessarily have to snorkel or dive to observe the fish. Most of the time, we swam in the lagoon since we simply hadn’t mustered the courage to snorkel yet. The fear of what we might encounter in the water and the respect for possible currents were still obstacles. Today, we could kick ourselves for it because Fihalhohi is said to have a really great house reef. So, we recommend to all the scaredy-cats: go for it! You’ll only regret it, just like we do now.
The food
There was the typical buffet with different sections for appetizers, main courses, and desserts, catering to everyone’s tastes. We ate heartily, and we particularly enjoyed the fruits and desserts.Â
At the dining table, we usually weren’t alone, as one or two guests from other bungalows (who spoke the same language) were seated at the same table. That’s how we got to know Hans from Munich and a couple from Switzerland. Since we didn’t have much money, we didn’t really spend a lot of time in the bar and mostly saw the other guests only in the restaurant, until one evening when Hans bought us a cola. That was really kind! Well, we were young and didn’t have much money xD .
After dinner, we had a little ritual: We always took a stroll around the island under the palm trees toward the jetty. Before walking onto the jetty, there’s a beach on the left and right, filled with lots of crabs. Even though it was extremely dark, if you shone a flashlight over the area, you could see them scurry away. We had never seen so many crabs at once before!
Christmas and New Year's
Fihalhohi put a lot of effort into creating a festive atmosphere for Christmas. Along with Christmas decorations in the bar and restaurant, colorful string lights were wrapped around palm trees and hung on the trees, as well as along the jetty and on the roof of the bar. We found the Christmas gift for each person to be particularly nice: a small jute bag of sweets hung on the room door, and there was also a wrapped Baumkuchen (tree cake) on the bed. The chefs had gone the extra mile for the buffet, creating some delicious treats and baking huge gingerbread houses.
For New Year’s Eve, in addition to the excellent food in the restaurant, there was good music and plenty of entertainment in the bar. There wasn’t a fireworks display at midnight in the past since it wasn’t allowed. Instead, in a more environmentally friendly manner, balloons were simply popped. The guests certainly had fun! Everyone enthusiastically stomped on a balloon to create the “pop” effect. It was definitely amusing!
The travel time
Unfortunately, the weather in December didn’t hold up as well as we had hoped, and out of a total of 14 days, we experienced 5 full days of rain. But that’s just the way it is; you can’t control the weather, and you’ll never get a guarantee of perfect weather – not even in the high season.
In conclusion
As you can see from the final bill, we spent very little and mostly drank water. No cocktails or other expensive drinks. We simply didn’t have that much money, but we still wanted to afford ourselves the Maldives experience. We don’t regret it.
In return, we carried away so much, such as the wonderfully shared time just for the two of us, the relaxation that can’t be found in any other vacation, and a small experience for ourselves. For us, this marked the beginning of more journeys to come… Thank you very much, Fihalhohi! Thank you for the wonderful time!
Personal conclusion
Fihalhohi is a great choice as a travel destination for those seeking the Maldivian ambiance, perhaps needing to be mindful of their budget and not placing a high value on luxury. This is confirmed by the multitude of repeaters who appreciate and love exactly that.
For us personally, we wouldn’t choose the island again as we now have many opportunities to compare with other hotels, even in the low-budget range, that suit us better. However, Fihalhohi will always hold a special place in our hearts as our first Maldives experience.
Note: Please be aware that these are our personal impressions from the time we experienced them, and since then, there may have been changes on the island.
